WAITING FOR THE SHADOW

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Atacama - 21 years on

Sunday 7th July, 2019.
 
Today, I decided to get high. So I took a drive to the high calderas in the area near the Argentine border.  I picked up a young hitchhiker from Singapore named Aaron as I was leaving town. I know what you're thinking. I thought the same thing as I drove past him. Then about a kilomtre up the road, I thought to myself, "hang on you hypocrite, 21 years ago, you were his age and hitching rides in the same sort of country up in north Chile."  So I turned around and went back and picked him up.

The first thing we noticed were vicuņas, and then even more
vicuņas.



and more





and more









Aaron took a selfie, I took a picture of Aaron taking a selfie................................
Then he took several of me, this is the one I like best....
         
And as you can probably guess from our thick jackets, yes it was fffffffreezing cold.



Getting High


This  frozen section of this river is at 4600m altitude and at other locations where we stopped, the GPS indicated we got up to 4900 metres altitude where the air pressure is about 50% of that at sea level.
Each time I've rapidly ascended in altitude, my bodies reaction has been different.  In 1994, I flew into La Paz Bolivia (4000m), immediately became dizzy as I was leaving the plane. I lost coordination so that I could barely sign my own name on the customs entry card. I developed a splitting headache, a few cups of coca leaf tea fixed that and after 24hrs, the worst of it was over. 
In 1998, I again flew into La Paz. Braced myself for the reaction......nothing.  I'd contracted typhoid fever in Guatemala and had some chest congestion that just wouldn't clear for the next 8 weeks I was there and at altitude but no symptoms on flying into 4000m and no symptoms when I went up to 5500m.
Yesterday, having spent a few days in San Pedro (2400m) we drove straight up to 4900 m over a span of about 2 hrs. The shortness of breath was clear. Hands were a little shaky when holding the telephoto.  Even walking a short distance left me breathing heavily. The telephoto is a 300mm f4 and with camera weighs 1.8kg, the muscles weren't getting enough oxygen to hold steady.  Apart from that, a mild headache developed over the course of the day. It wasn't dehydration, I drank water regularly all day. Part of the trick is to remember to breath deeply.  At sea level, we breath very shallowly and that's sufficient. At 5000m, there is only half the oxygen in every shallow breath so you need to expand the chest, take in twice as much volume and that helps a lot.
Different reactions each time I go up high and fortunately, none serious.
Small price to pay for a great day. 







  

The stunning Caldera Pacana



 
Caldera Pacana


Caldera Pacana


Caldera Pacana


After this stop, I made a beeline for the Paso Jamo Argentine border post. I explained to the Aduana (customs) that I did not want to enter Argentina and I'd be turning around and returning to San Pedro but that Aaron wanted to get off, and  enter Argentina on foot, then catch a bus to Jujuy.

We said our goodbyes and I left immediately to return to a high vantage point over the beautiful
Salar de Loyoques and catch the dying rays of the sun.

Salar de Loyoques



Salar de Loyoques


Salar de Loyoques


Salar de Loyoques



Salar de Loyoques







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