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information for travellers - Argentina

This does not attempt to be a comprehensive guide to Argentina. Included here are a few morsels of information that I've discovered in the course of my travels. Popular destinations like Bariloche and Mendosa are not mentioned only because I have not yet visited them.


 

 Language

Cataratas Iguazu

 Costs

 Buenos Aeres

Table of contents

 Peninsula Valdez

 Los Glaciares NP & Ushuaia

  Currency & Economy

 Salta & Jujuy


Language
A peculiar and very strong dialect of Spanish is spoken in Argentina. The ll sound is pronounced like a "J" in English whereas in other dialects of Spanish, it is pronounced like a "Y". Words beginning with a Y are pronounced with a "J" sound eg the personal pronoun " Yo " is pronounced to sound like the English name "JOE"

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Currency & Economy
1 Peso = US$0.30
Since the collapse of the currency, Argentina has

 

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Costs
Clean economy rooms cost about $15 in most places with some locations such as Buenos Aeres and some resort areas costing much more. For more elegant surroundings prices rise sharply from the economy rate.

Meals can cost anything from a couple of dollars up depending on where you go. The continental style food in Argentina is excellent as are many of the red wines and I tend to splurge a bit at meal times. If you are a vegetarian in Argentina you may have to look around quite a bit for restaurants with good vegetarian food.

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Buenos Aeres
Airport
The international airport is located 35km from the city. For the independent traveller, the Manuel Tienda bus service is hard to beat at $15 each way. A taxi will cost $30-50 depending on how hard you haggle. For an individual, it is simply not worth the bother. The bus is comfortable, safely driven and most importantly air-conditioned. The bus terminal is located just around the corner from the budget hotel mentioned below. Oncejust once I used the public bus system to get to the airport. I had more than three hours to spare before my flight departed. Had my flight departed on schedule, I would have missed the flight. The public bus took 2.5 hrs to reach the airport standing most of the way. Pay the $15.

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Accommodation in Buenos Aeres
A moderately priced clean, decent and convenient place to stay in Buenos Aeres is the Hotel Central Cordoba on San Martin 1021/23. It is just two minutes walk from the airport shuttle and it cost about US$38/50 with shared bathroom per night in 1998. All the staff are very friendly and the rooms small but clean & comfortable.

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Cataratas Iguazu
These are the most stunning beautiful waterfalls I've ever seen. I've heard that Victoria falls are as stunning and by comparison, Niagara Falls don't even rate as worthy of a mention on this web site. The Falls are located in the Missiones region of Argentina and straddle the border of Brazil and Argentina. It is definitely worth seeing the falls from both sides of the border. I have had the privilege of spending four days at the falls on two occasions and enjoyed both visits immensely. On the Brazilian and Argentinian sides, you can walk through rainforest, along riverbanks, stand in the spray and in the blasting air of some of the largest water flows. You can take boat rides to the edge and back again. I've found nature photography easier on the Argentine side as there is less traffic, less people and more accessible forest. The Brazilian side has helicopter rides that may be stopped in the near future. From the Brazilian side you can get a better overall view of the falls whereas from the Argentinian side, you can get in amongst it. Both are well worth experiencing. There is a hotel at the falls on the Argentina side of the falls. Given that it is only a 20 minute bus ride from Puerto Iguazu, Argentina and Foz de Iguazu, Brazil to the falls, there isn't much incentive to pay out the US$150+ per night to stay at the falls. One incentive for photographer's to stay there is that you can't get into the falls before about 8.00 am entering by bus whereas hotel guests can be out at dawn. There is a Brazilian Embassy in Puerto Iguazu but I recommend that you get visa's if required before you leave home. On the occasion that I used it, it was slow and they wasted a lot of our time deliberately. The consular staff were quite rude. By comparison, the Embassy of Brazil right here in Canberra was just the opposite. Fast efficient and polite. Never again!

 

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Peninsula Valdez
Peninsula Valdez boasts the world's biggest Penguin colony at Punta Tombo as well as impressive colonies of Elephant Seals and Seal lions. At certain times of the year, migratory whale watching is possible. Christmas / New Year is not the right time. Most people stay in Puerto Madryn. I stayed with friends so I can't recommend any hotels. The restaurants are excellent and I recommend you try different ones each night as they have quite varied menus.

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Ushuaia & Los Glaciares NP
Accessed via the town of El Calefate. If your time is limited and you are dividing your precious time between Ushuaia and Los Glaciares NP, I recommend the following. If you are the type of tourist who likes to take guided tours with little walking, spend most of your time in Ushuaia and just one full day in El Calefate to do the Moreno Glacier tour. If you are an active person and want to hike, spend your time in Los Glaciares NP and only visit Ushuaia if you have plenty of time. There are good walks around Ushuaia but if you have to choose due to limited time, the Fitzroy/ Cerro Torre base camps walk in Los Glaciares is much more stunning. Don't attempt this walk unless you are reasonably fit and equipped to camp in cold weather( read my Los Glaciares story when it is ready). Allow yourself a couple of days at each as there are frequent clouds covering the mountaintops. Get up at 4 am and you might have a better chance of seeing the peaks.

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Salta & Jujuy
These regions deserve much more description than I am able to give them here. These relatively poor regions of Argentina are located in the north west and the landscapes are dominated by views of multiply coloured mountain ranges. The famous "tren a las nubes" or "train to the clouds" departs from Salta. You must book 1-2 months in advance to get a seat. The capitals Salta and San Salvador de Jujuy are wonderful old colonial towns that have a lot of character. On my way to Bolivia, rather than booking a direct bus ticket to La Quiaca, I caught a series of local buses stopping in a string of little towns between SS de Jujuy and La Quiaca. Those that I found especially rewarding were Humahuaca, Tilcara and Tres Cruces. At Tres Cruces, I asked the guards at the customs checkpoint if they could watch my luggage and they kindly locked my backpack in a jail cell while I went walking among the almost surreal rock formations in the hills behind the town. Likewise, I enjoyed short over night stays in Tilcara and Humahuaca.

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